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It’s spring gardening time! Or is it? It will come, but exactly when can you plant spring vegetables? And better yet, what vegetables can you plant?
This list of 12 foods can be planted in early spring, but there are some garden tips you need to know first.
Before spring garden season arrives, there are lots of chores that need to be done. So feel free to use this handy checklist of tips to get ahead of the season.
Also, this article is great for saving money when ordering seeds. And it’s not too late to request your free seed catalogs, either.
But for now, let’s talk about just how soon you can plant spring vegetables and them not be frozen out by cold temperatures. What seeds should be started indoors or direct sown in the garden soil?
I remember when I was a beginner at gardening, the first time I ordered seeds, they arrived, and I had no idea what to do with them. At the time, I didn’t know how to read a seed packet, and needless to say, my first garden was not a good experience.
Not only did I waste a lot of great organic heirloom seeds, but things that did come up also didn’t produce very much at all.
I didn’t know I needed to improve or amend the soil in my raised beds either. But found out that healthy soil is necessary for seeds to germinate and plants to grow.
I had just filled the beds with a “garden soil” I purchased from a local landscape company and thought it would work great. Was I wrong!!!
So let’s make sure your experience is much better.
RELATED: Even if you’ve never gardened before, this Vegetable Gardening for Beginners Ultimate Guide is for you! Learn everything you need to know from over 60 resources, all in one place, to be a successful gardener, including improving soil, cover crops, warm and cool season crops, organic amendments, fertilizing, watering, and so much more.
What To Plant in Early Spring?
Spring is the perfect time for planting. Some vegetables can be planted before others. We’ll review a list of the 12 best vegetables to plant in the spring and when to plant them. All of these are easy to grow, even if you are a beginner.
Many early spring vegetables can be direct sown weeks before the last frost. Use this step-by-step guide to starting seeds indoors, and when it talks about a grow light system, you can do a DIY system like this one.
Related: 13 Easiest To Grow Vegetables For Guaranteed Success as A Beginning Gardener
Planting Zones and Last Frost Dates
Before we begin, you will need to know your planting zone and frost dates. For me, here in SE Tennessee, I’m in 7a, and our last frost date is April 15th. So my whole planting schedule is planned around this April 15th date.
The planting zone refers to the climatic conditions based on plant life. This means our winters here in Tennessee are much milder than the winter temperatures in Maine. Therefore, I can plant spring vegetables much sooner than in the northern areas.
And then the last frost date refers to the average last date frost is expected before spring temperatures are consistent. This is only an estimated guess. Since none of us can predict the “specific” date mother nature will offer up a frost, so always be prepared to cover your plants if necessary for protection.
You can find your specific zone by zip code here and your last expected frost date here. And then, you will need to figure out specific planting dates. There are a couple of ways to do this.
You can then either look at a calendar and count “backward” from your frost date, or a much quicker way is to use this FREE GARDEN PLANNING CALCULATOR from Seeds for Generations. All you need to do is plug in your last frost estimated date, and it will give you planting dates for your area immediately.
How to Plant Cool Season Vegetables
In early spring, you will want to start what is known as cool season crops—vegetables such as peas, carrots, and cabbages. Cool-season vegetables thrive in cooler temperatures and can even survive a light frost but will bolt in warmer temperatures.
Whereas other vegetables, like cucumbers and tomatoes, which are known as warm-season crops, cannot. So the threat of frost must be well passed before planting warm-weather vegetables.
So knowing your zone and frost dates are helpful information for determining when you should start planting early spring vegetables. Seed packet instructions are based on you knowing these dates.
Before we get into the specifics of vegetable seeds, you need to check soil temperatures too. Different seeds need various temperatures to germinate; this information is found on the seed packet too. So before putting seeds into the ground, ensure the soil is warm enough. I use a simple soil temperature probe, much like this one, to test temperatures.
RELATED: Take the guesswork out! Use the easy formula worksheets in The Canning Garden Workbook (printable) to figure out how much to plant, for canning, to feed your family for a full year!
To make the most of the space you have, before you begin, create a garden map to maximize your space.
12 Vegetables To Plant In Early Spring
1 Beets
TIP 1: Beet seeds have really hard shells. Soak them in warm water for about an hour prior to direct sowing into the soil to help soften them to speed germination.
TIP 2: Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen. High volumes of nitrogen will cause the leaves to grow extremely large and the beetroot to be small.
- Planting Time: 2-4 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/2 inch directly into the soil
- Soil Temperature: 50-85
- Spacing: 4-6 inches
- Days to Maturity: 55-60 days
- When to Harvest: When the root is 1.5 – 2.5 inches in size
2 Broccoli
TIP 1: Broccoli seeds do best when started indoors and then transplanted
TIP 2: Cover broccoli with a row cover to naturally control cabbage worms
- Planting Time: 2-3 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/2 inch into the soil
- Soil Temperature: 75-85 (which is why it should be started indoors)
- Spacing: 12-24 inches apart
- Days to Maturity: 60-70 days
- When to Harvest: When the flower is still tight and has no yellow appearance
3 Carrots
Tip 1: Carrots should be planted in prepared loose sandy soil free of rocks and hard objects that will cause “roadblocks” to the root to grow deep into your soil.
Tip 2: Carrot seeds are super tiny and difficult to plant. So plant heavy and thinning will be necessary.
- Planting Time: 2-3 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: Do not cover. Place seeds on top of the soil
- Soil Temperature: 45-65
- Spacing: 3 inches apart (thin to)
- Days to Maturity: 65-75 days
- When to Harvest: Anytime roots are firm and brittle
4 Cabbage
Tip 1: Cabbage is also affected by cabbage worms, so row covers are again recommended
Tip 2: Cabbages need a lot of water to prevent splitting
- Planting Time: Start seeds indoors 8 weeks prior to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/2 inch
- Soil Temperature: 45-75
- Spacing: 18 inches
- Days to Maturity: 65 days
- When to Harvest: When the head is firm when squeezed
5 Collard Greens
Tip 1: Frost can improve flavor.
Tip 2: Green should be harvested frequently to continue growth.
- Planting Time: 4-6 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/4 inch deep
- Soil Temperature: 60-70
- Spacing: 18 inches apart
- Days to Maturity: 65-75 days
6 Kale
Tip 1: Kale will become bitter and woody in the summer heat. To give kale the best chance – start seeds inside 4-6 weeks before the last frost. It can be direct sown as well.
- Planting Time: 3-5 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/4 inch deep
- Soil Temperature: 60-70
- Spacing: 8-10 inches apart
- Days to Maturity: 55-65 days
- When to Harvest: When leaves are large and not beginning to “yellow.”
7 Lettuce
Tip 1: Leaf lettuce has more nutritional value than head lettuce.
Tip 2: Stagger planting every few days to extend the harvest.
- Planting Time: 2-3 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/4 inch into the soil
- Soil Temperature: 45-65
- Spacing: 4 inches apart
- Days to Maturity: 40-50 days
- When to Harvest: When tender and mild, BEFORE bolting
8 Onions
Tip 1: Onions grow from sets much faster. These are tiny onion bulbs that are grown and dried the previous year. They are planted directly into well-amended soil. Onions are difficult to start from seed, but not impossible.
Tip 2: When planting sets, place the set in soil with the “pointed” end up.
- Planting Time: 2-4 weeks BEFORE the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1-inch deep, leaving a tip exposed
- Soil Temperature: Bulb: 50-85; Scallions: 65-85
- Spacing: 4-5 inches apart
- Days to Maturity: 30-60 days
- When to Harvest:
- Green Onions – when the bulb is approximately 3/8 – 1 inch in diameter
- Storage Onions – AFTER tops have died and turned brown
9 Peas
Tip 1: Peas fit into 2 varieties – Vining and Bush/Dwarf. Vining requires trellising, and bush can be grown without a trellis.
Tip 2: When harvesting, hold the stem with one hand and use your other hand to pull off the pods.
Vining Peas:
- Planting Time: 4-6 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1-2 inches deep (peas require a deep root)
- Soil Temperature: 40-80
- Spacing: in double rows, 6-8 inches apart on each side of 5-6 feet tall trellis support
- Days to Maturity: 65-70 days
- When to Harvest: AFTER pods have swelled into a cylindrical shape
Bush/Dwarf Peas
- Planting Time: 4-6 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1-2 inches deep (require deep roots)
- Soil Temperature: 40°-80°
- Spacing: 2-3 inches apart to allow the bush to tangle and support itself
- Days to Maturity: 65-75 days
- When to Harvest: After pods have swelled
10 Radish
Tip 1: Loosen soil 12-14 inches deep before planting since the edible root is below the surface.
Tip 2: Broadcast seeds over the soil surface to create a bed and rake lightly to cover and then thin in the seedling stage.
- Planting Time: 4-6 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/2 inch deep
- Soil Temperature: 45-90°
- Spacing: 2 inches apart
- Days to Maturity: 25-30 days
- When to Harvest: When firm and a brilliant red
11 Spinach
Tip 1: Spinach does best when seeds are broadcast into garden soil.
Tip 2: Stagger plantings to extend the harvest.
- Planting Time: 4 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/2 inch deep
- Soil Temperature: 50-75°
- Spacing: 3-4 inches
- Days to Maturity: 40-50 days
- When to Harvest: When leaves are crisp and dark green
12 Turnips
Tip 1: You can eat both the green top and the root of a turnip plant – no waste!
Tip 2: Turnips make a great fall garden vegetable
- Planting Time: 2-3 weeks PRIOR to the last frost
- Planting Depth: 1/2 inch deep into the soil
- Soil Temperature: 45-90°
- Spacing: about 4 inches apart
- Days to Maturity:
- Green Top – 30-40 days
- Tap Root – 40-65 days
- When to Harvest:
- Green Top – While leaves are green and crisp
- Tap Root – Once they are 2 inches in diameter but still tender
RELATED: With just a bit of planning, you can plant these same 12 vegetable crops in the fall as well.
All the seeds we’ve talked about today are what are called “cool season” crops. They don’t like the summer heat. Many of them will bolt, or their flavor will become bitter in the heat.
Once these crops finish producing, you can clean up the area, remove the plants and then immediately begin planting warm-season crops like green beans, okra, and peppers.
Spring vegetable garden scheduling can be more exciting and super easy when you are prepared in advance, so use this checklist!
What early spring vegetables will you be planting this year?
More Spring Garden Tips
- 7 Simple Steps To Do Before Spring
- How to Grow Potatoes
- Soil Temperatures and Spring Planting
- Best Cover Crops for Home Gardens
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Dianne Hadorn is the owner of Hidden Springs Homestead nestled in the hills of East Tennessee. She is a Master Gardener and enjoys helping others learn how to grow and preserve their own food and sharing tips for living a more sustainable life.
I love gardening used to live in NEBRASKA now live southern Missouri and very rocky soil and lot more moisture really struggling with gaden because what worked in soil in Nebraska not working here plus im fighting more crittefz here.woodchucks and squirrels and drought gets mozt my garden any suggestions would be helpful . average rainfall here is about. 45″ in Nebraska was 25,but first yr lived here had over 100 inches rain so it varies alot see my delema….Do raised beds but something isnt right…..
Hi Jerry,
Sorry for delay in getting back to you. Ugh, I know its frustrating when trying to garden in a NEW climate or state – it’s all different. Its a big learning curve. To answer most of your questions, I’ll link to some of my articles that might help.
1). The very first thing I was say is to get a “soil test” done if you have not already. It will give you lots of insight on the makeup of the soil as well as give you advise as to what fertilizers and amendments it needs. This link will help to explain: https://www.hiddenspringshomestead.com/healthy-soil-its-necessary/
2). Next is how deep are your beds? They should be a minimum of 12-14 inches for proper depth of your root system as well as drainage. Mine are actually 18+ inches. Of course, I am on a slope and some had to be really deep to keep soil from washing away. My first year with raised beds, 2015 – they were 10 inches deep and it was a fiasco. So when it does rain a lot, the moisture drains well.
Oh my goodness, I can think of some many things to ask you and to look at. To help with the critters, I really don’t have a specific suggestion On all your raised beds though, make sure to use 4-6 mulch or straw – consistently. I use leaves that I save each year. It helps a lot with weed control, moisture and keeping my cats out of the garden. They don’t seem to like the feel of it. So maybe straw would help. I just pick it up for $7 a bale at our local LOWES. With all my beds, it takes 2 bales to keep it thick enough. So I feel like it’s money well spent.
I also have a rain gauge in my garden so I can keep up with rainfall. Our fall and springs in Tennessee are super wet, but then we go into a drought around end of May thru the end of Sept. I have to water during the summer months. You want water slow and allow it to go deep into the soil. For the first 2 seasons with raised beds, I dragged a water hose around and used a water wand to water. It took me a couple hours, but it helped tremendously. Last year, I was fortunate to install a drip-irrigation system – that is a learning curve too. No way to “measure how much” you are putting on. Maybe this link will help you with watering. https://www.hiddenspringshomestead.com/how-to-water-a-garden/
This would be the main things I start with. I will be completely honest. Year one was horrible for me for raised beds. My soil was bad, they were not deep enough, etc. but I keep a JOURNAL to see what works and doesn’t work. This year 2018, was my best year yet. I was looking back over my notes,soil tests, and yields and see that it is improving A LOT! It takes on average of 3 years to get soil really HEALTHY. And then once you get it there, you will need to maintain it with doing soil test. I do one yearly, but in some classes I’ve taken, they say every 2 years is good. Here in Tennessee, they cost from $6-$15 so I do it yearly. Check with your local Extension Office – they can help you with the soil tests.
AND my last thing I can think of to tell you. Since you are new to a new state. I would check with the local Extension Office to see if they offer any classes on gardening. Tennessee does and I took it and learned a lot. I hope this has helped. I may have rambled a lo. I tend to be quiet wordy…. I was in class with people who had moved here from other states that were talking about your same struggles.
I hope this has helped. If you have more questions, please feel free to ask. I’d love to help in any way I can.
Happy Gardening,
Dianne
Thanks for sharing! Very informative! I always look forward to your next post.